For those unfamiliar with this method of exfoliation offered by estheticians from coast to coast, dermaplaning is mechanical removal of dead skin cells using a scalpel or as we call it in the industry, a dermablade.
With fluid scraping motion, the blade catches whole layers of dead skin and along with that, vellus hair (peach fuzz) as well as skincare and makeup residues that have built up on the surface enough to clog or block pores. In skillful hands, results are immediate and kinda life-changing.
Skin is dolphin-smooth, softer than ever, and supple like room-temp butter. It's everything you'd want and more when you're doing your regular skincare routine day in, day out–except it can't do what dermaplaning can. And the results last for weeks, which for many, justifies the spend/splurge.
A modality as worthwhile as this, is it for everyone?
As with most things skincare, it depends. The nice thing about dermaplaning is the esty can control how light- or heavy-handed to wield the blade. Beside modulating pressure, the number of passes makes a difference too. Fewer passes over an area amount to gentler exfoliation, while more passes means more removal.
An astute esty will dermaplane to the skin's disposition in real time. Fewer passes over thinner or more delicate skin. Working around the few acne lesions but doing enough passes over a textbook sebum plug to release it for extraction. More passes right below the bottom lip and down the nose where sebaceous filaments tend to take up permanent residence. Negotiating with distended capillaries.
I've dermaplaned sensitive skin, mild to almost moderate acne clients and of course "normal" skin clients with glowing success (literally). I would not perform this treatment on moderate to severe inflamed acne. Or someone exhibiting an impaired barrier or an eczema flare. Or sunburned skin, ouch. Also I skip over just-waxed areas because too much exfoliation is a thing, a bad thing. (Waxing lifts tons of dead skin, therefore it is exfoliating.)
Not sure if you're a good candidate? Consult an esthetician who's trained and certified in this advanced technique. They'll be able to greenlight it or recommend alternatives more in line with what your skin needs at the moment. Luckily, dermaplaning isn't the only way to achieve glowing skin. But when you're able to go for it, wowie! 👌🏼